The real Greece: breathtaking sea, delicious food, Troy, the birthplace of romance

I’m going to let you in on a secret about an amazing summer holiday destination in Greece which has crystal clear waters, delicious food, beautiful remote villages and hardly any tourism. The secret is Lesbos (or Lesvos, or Mytilini), an island in the sunny Aegean Sea. The word ‘Lesbian’, literally meaning ‘a woman from Lesbos’, was coined to refer to the ancient poet Sappho a native of the island who invented romantic poetry and wrote about same-sex love. Women seem to have always held a special position on Lesbos – the city of Mytilini itself is founded by the Amazon queen and named after her sister. I’ve always thought that the undiscovered beauty of this Mediterranean island with its gentle layers of mountainous olive groves and pine forests and its contour on a map incorporating two lagoons is somewhat feminine.

Of course there are other lovely places to visit in Greece which are off the beaten track but I love Lesbos, a paradise where I’ve spent countless summers (as did my father, grandmother and great-grandfather) in a house belonging to my extended family gazing across the narrow straits at the Turkish mountains beyond, just a few miles to the east. The sun rises behind these mountains – as does the most spectacular moon (especially in August) reflecting a silver beam of light in the wine-dark sea that Homer wrote about (the site of ancient Troy is just across the water, tucked into those Turkish mountains - check out the soon closing exhibition about Troy at the British Museum). If you’re in the know, you’ll know Lesbos has the best moon, otherwise you’ll know it when you see it.

Explore the island turning off the main roads into labyrinthine dirt tracks and with a bit of luck and a detailed map you’ll find an incredible dreamlike deserted sandy beach with turquiose waters like the strangely named beach ‘Priest’s Allotment’ or take a sailing boat to Tokmakia (can be arranged in Mytlini town) and dive into the crystal clear waters getting back on board for a mouthwatering lunch of fresh fish and various meze prepared on the boat by the Captain. Or drive across the island to Eressos (birthplace of Sappho), past a lagoon where pink flamingos stop as they fly south and back again, the landscape miraculously changing from lush groves and forests to red rocky heights. Climb up to the castle in Molyvos, a medieval fortress built to protect against Ottoman invasion. Then relax in the natural hot springs at Eftalou up the road before plunging into the sea. Eat your heart out in Lesbos where the food is amazing – the best of Greek cuisine with an eastern Turkish twist.

I don’t want to sound biased – Lesbos has its problems like anywhere else, most recently the influx of refugees. But in a way, that’s also because of its extraordinary location as the place where Europe meets Asia. Back at home in London I surround myself with the fabrics which I’ve screen-printed and made into cushions and lampshades and other accessories in colours that remind me of Greek summers, lifting my spirits and making me feel just a little warmer.